Oil pressure light: stop engine immediately — low oil pressure can destroy the engine in minutes. Temperature light: engine overheating — pull over and check coolant. Battery light: charging system fault — alternator or battery issue.
Check engine light: OBD2 fault code stored — steady is non-emergency, flashing means active misfire. ABS light: anti-lock brake fault — safe to drive but reduced braking capability. Airbag light: SRS system fault — have checked promptly.
The TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) light looks like a horseshoe with an exclamation point. It illuminates when one or more tires drops 25% below the recommended pressure. Check all four tires with a gauge and inflate to the pressure on the door jamb placard — not the number on the tire sidewall. If the light stays on after inflating, a sensor may be dead — battery life is 5 to 10 years. A flashing TPMS light indicates a system malfunction, not low pressure. TPMS sensor replacement costs $40 to $100 per wheel DIY, $80 to $150 at a shop.
The airbag light — a red icon of a person with a circle — means the Supplemental Restraint System has a fault. The airbags may not deploy in a crash, or may deploy unexpectedly. Common causes: a clock spring in the steering column (winds and unwinds with steering), a crashed seat belt pretensioner, a faulty impact sensor, or a dead backup battery in the SRS module. Do not ignore this light — it directly affects crash safety. Diagnosis requires a scan tool that reads SRS codes, not just engine codes. Most general OBD2 scanners cannot read airbag codes — you need an enhanced scanner or a shop visit.
When multiple lights appear simultaneously, the most likely cause is a single shared component failure, not multiple independent problems. A failing alternator can trigger the battery light, ABS light, and check engine light simultaneously because all systems depend on stable voltage. A failing wheel speed sensor can trigger the ABS light, traction control light, and check engine light together. A low battery can cause random lights to flicker or appear as voltage drops below the threshold each module needs. The diagnosis approach: do not chase each light individually. Check battery voltage and alternator output first, then scan all modules for codes. Fixing the root cause clears all the lights at once.
A flashing check engine light means an active misfire that is dumping unburned fuel into the catalytic converter. This can melt and destroy the catalyst within minutes — a $1,000+ repair. Reduce speed, avoid hard acceleration, and drive directly to a repair shop. Do not ignore a flashing check engine light.
A steady (non-flashing) check engine light means a non-critical fault has been detected. You can usually drive short distances, but should have the code scanned within a few days. A flashing check engine light means stop driving — active engine damage is occurring. Scan the code at any auto parts store for free.
The ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) warning light means the anti-lock function is disabled. Your brakes still work normally, but the wheels can lock up during hard braking, reducing steering control on slippery surfaces. Common causes include a failed wheel speed sensor, damaged ABS tone ring, or faulty ABS module. Safe to drive carefully, but get it diagnosed soon.
The oil pressure warning light means engine oil pressure is critically low. Stop the engine immediately — driving with low oil pressure destroys the engine within minutes. Check the oil level first. If oil is full, the oil pump or pressure sensor may be faulty. Have the vehicle towed — do not drive with this light on.
Reviewed by Vukašin Herbez — Automotive Editor · Last updated 2026-10-14